Meet my new toy. I found it in New York and have now managed to import a few to share with my fellow Kiwis here.

If I hadn’t already been hooked, I’d be tempted to try my luck at good ole crochet just because I love a beautiful thing, and this is. It’s the crochet equivalent of the I Phone. Form and function, and it’s ergonomic. Comes with 6 hook sizes.

Once I cradled my egg shaped wooden handle in the palm of my hand, I could sense the panic of all other hooks in my tool kit, fearing an imminent trip to Goodwill.

Let’s talk about crochet, a much maligned craft.

Every once in a while you read something like this from a fashion reporter:

“Your grandma is being channeled on high-fashion runways this spring, with crochet appearing on everything from dresses to swimsuits, handbags to shoes”.

It’s usually referring to something elegant such as this

why grandma, even though grandma is adorable? It must be because of the “granny” square, so named I know not why.

I’ve always loved crochet squares and have never thought of them as hippie or grannie or anything other than fun and colourful.

Which is why I loved it when Cate Blanchett stepped out of  everyone’s comfort zone and appeared on a red carpet in Melboune last year wearing this dress by Aussie designer Romance Was Born. There were shrieks of “ugly!” “how could she!” “wearing her sofa!” Lets face it, Cate can do anything, wear anything and is fearless when it comes to fashion and her profession. That’s why we love her!  She doesn’t play it safe is always elegant and best of all, seems to not take herself too seriously. The wit of this dress is evident and suggests a hard up housewife who has made her blanket into a dress. What’s wrong with that? I would think this should be applauded in the age of recycled chic.

One person in high places got it. Paul Smith, who always enlivens his preppy style with dash and humour, put this on the runway a few months later. It really does look like she’s draped herself with a blanket. But why not?

Hands up those who have never admired a pair of crochet shoes?

I used to own a pair of blue suede Valentino oxfords, the uppers of which were crocheted mesh made with strips of said blue suede. They were spectacular and I wish I could show them to you. note to self: never again sell shoes in yard sale without first taking a photo.

Not to worry, there are other designers understanding the appeal of crochet.

Chloe

Rachel Comey

Tory Burch

John Galliano outrageous beauties

If you can’t afford designer shoes, there’s always, as we well know, DIY.

Here’s some inspiration: the leg warmers are knit, I believe, but they’d be even more fun in crochet. Kind of like wearing your sofa around your ankles?

As I was working in my veggie garden today it  crossed my mind that

weeding generates a fertile mind. ideas spring forth.

it’s frosty here and I would love to knit a hot pink helmet

also, a version of this pullover worn by Jane Birkin, seen here in the 60’s clutching her signature basket which inspired Hermès to make the legendary Birkin Bag so that she could grow up and be a proper lady with a handbag.

Being my mothers daughter (leave a little to the imagination, dear) I have no intention of being naked under my Birkin style jumper. I thought I’d wear it more like this one, seen on another style icon, Françoise Gilot, former wife of Picasso. Habu fine merino for the gossamer effect  and wool stainless steel for structure, would do the trick, I think?

Françoise again, here in the famous Robert Capa pic wearing the dress I have always longed for. For those of us with less than perfect legs, when, oh when, will ankle length return?

We can blame the short skirt on the fabulous Jean Shrimpton (also wearing the pink helmet above), first real supermodel. Here she is in her accidental mini, causing a sensation with her bare legs at the Melbourne races in 1965.

We may not have to wait too much longer for the maxi. I spotted a khaki version of this Comme Des Garçons skirt on the sale rack at Barneys, alas not in my size. Where Commes go, others follow……

OK then, back to work.

By nature I am really a homebody, with no desire to go anywhere except my sofa, kitchen and garden where I would happily knit, cook and potter for months on end, if it weren’t for my beloved family who live too far away. I miss them so, and the time comes when I just have to jump on a jumbo and go see them.

Here are some snapshots from my recent trip.

Above, beautiful waterlilies in the Brooklyn Botannical Gardens.

Below, the window and delightfully old fashioned signage of one of my favourite stores in the world, Tender Buttons, on E 62nd St. It’s a tiny store lined with vintage and new buttons exquisitely displayed and one of those places that sets your heart racing the minute you walk in…if you’re a button lover, that is.

Around the corner from Tender Buttons in Central Park, on my way to the Met, this elderly gent was walking ahead of me. How chic and comfortable he looks in his bright green shirt and suspenders.

Inside the Met I was, as usual, agog at the beauty and the level of excellence possible in such a grand institution.

Below, the marble ceiling which was echoing with the sound  of a chamber orchestra.

I spied this display case tucked away in a corner next to the lift down to the cafeteria.They’re folded cloth napkins! Can you believe that someone has gone to the trouble of following the instructions in a 16th century book of napkin folding? Wow! What fabulous dinner parties they must have had back then Royalty, no doubt.

Here’s a closer look at the pages, in case you need some inspiration for your next formal dinner…..

Upstairs was a Picasso exhibit. I loved the deliberate composition of this self portrait. He’s so stylish. Is it a smock, or a jacket? Either way, I want to make one!

Up on the roof of the Met was this spectacular structure made of stems of bamboo tied, yes, tied! together. It’s a work in progress, and the day I was there, a woman was perched high on top, tying in more lengths to an already vast work. If you’re game, you can take a tour and walk up through it.

Downtown late in the day to meet India after work, I couldn’t resist the window at Lion Brand’s Studio, 34 West 15th St. I know they have more resources at their disposal than your average independent knitting shop, but the attention paid to detail in their store is impressive, from the sampling wall to the hand woven blinds on the windows at the back of the store. They employ talented and creative people, too, to create displays like the one below: Coney Island created with yarn.

Out on Long Island for a few days with my family, I was stunned by the beauty of the North Fork. We stayed at a cottage on Long Island Sound where the beach, because it’s stony, is empty and ideal for beach combing.

I loved this delicate arrangement of twigs deposited by the tide.

Bright green seaweed was smeared along the shore, and in the stream that came from a small lake down to beach.

Back in NY, I sheltered from the extreme 90 degree heat the same way I sheltered from a snow storm many years ago: in the museums. In the courtyard at MOMA was Yoko Ono’s Wish tree.

Some of the wishes:

that there were more tags available to write wishes on

that every day was my birthday

world peace

to find the right man, have a child and get my dream job but it will have to happen soon because I’m almost 40!

I didn’t write one, but if I did it would have read: to live closer to my kids!

Here I am in New York, after a stop in Los Angeles, where I explored yarn shops (of course). Visiting Wildfiber is like going back to my childhood home, with one exception: it is as big as I remembered, with lots of space to sit and knit, which I did last Wednesday night in the company of some old friends I’d not seen in three years. It was a lovely way to begin my trip to the USA.

The next stop on my shop tour was Knitter’s Studio, on 3rd Street in West Hollywood, followed by Twist, in Manhattan Beach. Both are charming, with beautiful selections of natural fibres. Cathy Karen, of Twist, has her very own selection of beautiful yarns she dyes herself.

Now that I’m in New York, having spilled a glass of tomato juice all over my lap during the flight and arriving without my luggage which took another 24 hours to show up  – amazing how helpful a little shampoo and a hairdryer in a hotel bathroom can be when you have no other options and you’re late for dinner – I’m excited that Abigail, a new cardigan I designed for The Knitter magazine, is on the cover of Issue 20, out this week.

Abigail is inspired by the blouses of the 1950’s and 60’s which I love. Think Betsy of Mad Men, and a pair of slim pants or a full skirt.. It could also be lovely worn open, over a dress.  I gave it a tailored, Peter Pan collar which I’d wanted to try for some time.  I’m excited at the way it turned out!

It’s very fun to knit (one piece to the armholes) with no dreaded button band to pick up or attach later. It’s all done as you go. One of my favourite details is the touch of eyelet gathering on the sleeves and pockets.

Sizes are 81cm(32″) to 117cm(46″) chest. The yarn is Debbie Bliss Eco Baby.

Now I’m off to explore New York with India. We’ve heard there’s a new knitting shop in Brooklyn that has a liquor license!  Now that’s a new angle.

But before I go I have to mention String, on East 65th St. It’s a lovely shop, airy and light, located upstairs in an old brownstone. Linda Morse, the owner, imports cashmere  and has it dyed by  Koigu in some of their Kpppm colours.

This an easy hat pattern, but sometimes such a thing is hard to find.

I made it for my son, Pete, who is very particular in his taste. Like most knitters I fear that my efforts will end up on the rag pile, so on one of his visits home I asked him for specific instructions on just exactly what sort of hat he would like to wear.

The result was two versions, one in butterscotch, a gorgeous golden shade of chunky, soft Blue Sky Worsted (worn by Polly, above), the other in an evergreen shade of Koigu Kersti, a classic dk. They both have long bands of ribbing that can be folded back watch cap style.

The circumference of both hats is 33cm[13"] in 2/2 rib unstretched and will fit a medium-large head 48-56cm [19-22"]

Here are the instructions.

POLLY’S HAT:

Materials

Blue Sky Alpacas Worsted Hand Dyes; 1 skein  2022-butterscotch

Size 5mm [US8]  40cm circular needles

Size 5.5mm double pointed needles (DPNs)

tapestry needle

stitch marker

Cast on 72 sts on smaller needle. Join in round, taking care not to twist. Place marker.

Work K2, P2 rib for 16cm.

Change to DPNs and work 9cm in stst (all rounds knit).

Begin decreases:

Round 1: *K6, k2tog; repeat from * to end. –63 sts.

Rnd 2 and all even rounds: Knit

Rnd 3: *K5, k2tog; rep from * to end. –54 sts.

Rnd 5: *K4, k2tog; rep from * to end. –45 sts.

Rnd 7:*K3, k2tog; rep from * to end. –36 sts.

Rnd 9: *K2, k2tog; rep from * to end. –27sts.

Rnd 11: *K1, k2tog; rep from * to end. –18 sts.

Rnd 13: *K2tog; rep from * to end. –9 sts.

Break yarn and thread through remaining stitches. Pull tight and with tapestry needle, weave in ends on WS of hat.

PETE’S HAT

Worn above, with the ribbing folded back twice.

Koigu Kersti; 1 skein shade K1510

Size 3.75mm [US5]  40cm circular needles

Size 4mm[US6] double pointed needles

tapestry needle

stitch marker

Cast on 104 sts on smaller needle. Join in round, taking care not to twist. Place marker.

Work K2, P2 rib for 16cm.

Change to DPNs and work 9cm in stst (all rounds knit).

Begin decreases:

Round 1: *K6, k2tog; repeat from * to end. –91sts.

Rnd 2 and all even rounds: Knit

Rnd 3: *K5, k2tog; rep from * to end. –78 sts.

Rnd 5: *K4, k2tog; rep from * to end. –65 sts.

Rnd 7:*K3, k2tog; rep from * to end. –52 sts.

Rnd 9: *K2, k2tog; rep from * to end. –39 sts.

Rnd 11: *K1, k2tog; rep from * to end. –26 sts.

Rnd 13: *K2tog; rep from * to end.–13 sts.

Break yarn and thread through remaining stitches.  Pull tight and with tapestry needle weave in ends on WS of hat.

Tomorrow I leave on my trip to TNNA in Ohio and then New York. Shipping for South Seas Knitting will continue while I’m away. In the meantime, happy knitting!

Time flies when you’re having fun, even faster when you’re knitting.

This is not so good on a rainy Sunday afternoon that you’d like to last for days, but excellent on a long haul flight.

I’m about to embark on just such a thing, to a trade show in Ohio, USA. I always knit on flights, and I’m shocked when people ask me if it’s ok. I thought that had been resolved a long time ago but it seems not. I’m told that knitting is forbidden on Qantas flights. Can this be true? It’s years since the USA airlines officially approved knitting. How cranky of Qantas.

My favourite needles for travelling are bamboo circulars. They’re compact, friendly-looking, and there’s no danger of a needle dropping and rolling under the seat of the person three rows in front.  A knitter crawling along the aisle peering under seats is bound to cause an international incident.

I will be taking a nice lightweight project on my circulars, perhaps a small mohair shawl in a light coloured yarn so I can see it when the cabin lights are dimmed.

Speaking of trips, let’s head back to the 90’s. Hard to believe it’s more than a decade in the past, and that soon we’ll been talking about the 10’s in sepia tones.

During that decade I was, for the most part, designing knits for LL Bean of Maine while living in Santa Monica. It was a happy time. My children were big enough to ride their own bicycles but not yet demanding to dropped off at the mall.

1993. The cardigan above and below was so dear to me that I wore it for most of the decade. It’s a little bit South America, a little bit Amish quilt.

Then there was American Quilt (below) which was a best seller in 1995.

Here’s a pattern that combined my love of Native American motifs with Maori weaving patterns from New Zealand.

This abstract floral cardigan  (note in all of these the emphasis was on the motifs, not the shapes, all of which were simple and boxy) was inspired by some stenciling I’d seen on a wall in India.

Later in the 90’s I did some designs for a company that made, of all things, cowboy shirts. The beautiful ones with piping and embroidery. The owner thought some cowboy themed knits would work well in places like Montana where it’s cold out on the prairie. I designed several and although they didn’t really work for the cowboy market, they’re enjoying newfound popularity with my son Pete and his friend Polly here. This one is based on the classic 1950’s shawl collar jacket.

In resurrecting some of these designs it made me think I’d like to update them. Picture knits are coming back, I think.

If any of my knitting compadres from Wildfiber read this, I’m going to be there on Wednesday evening, June 9, 5:30 -7:30, and I’d love to see you. Come and join me for a knittin knit in!

–Mel

Thank you for your comments on my 80’s knit parade last week. I really appreciate it. I did not mean to apologize for the 80’s. I have very fond memories of that decade: I arrived in the USA, my children were young, small enough to willingly wear anything I knitted them and sit on the back of my bicycle, I was young and because of that, could wear shoulder padded jumpsuits and not look silly. I also wore apple green-and-hot-pink cowboy boots, Native American Seminole skirts cinched at the waist with a silver belt, and my ears dripped with turquoise. It was an exciting time in fashion.

For a moment, the 90’s will have to wait. They’ve been interrupted by this news flash from my friends at Koigu: Maie Landra’s latest design, this stunning dress.

I’m absolutely wowed by it. Doesn’t it look like something Maid Marian might wear in Sherwood Forest? When I look at it I see many influences:  the Renaissance, 1970’s caftan, art deco, and most important, a future when we will all be wearing comfortable ankle length hand knits that hide a multitude of sins and are also elegant and fashionable. What do you see?

Evidently a simpler version of this will be appearing in Vogue Knitting Fall 2010. For fans of Koigu Kersti, the lovely model is none other than the little girl the yarn was named after, quite grown up now.

I’ve been at a loss for words this week.

So I thought I’d do some reminiscing. Taking a look at the past can provide a clue to the way forward, don’t you think? An astrologer who did my chart a long time ago told me I should look through my photo albums at least once a month to remind myself of who I am and where I’ve been. This, he said, is essential for a gemini because we tend to live in the present and jettison the past too easily.

The past in this case is some of the work I’ve done in knitting in the years before I had my shop in California and before I wrote my book with Tracey.

Some of these are designs that I sold under my own label. They were made by  a group of dedicated and intrepid knitters in New Zealand and sold to boutiques in the USA, mostly on the East Coast. Does anyone remember Stewart Ross on Madison Avenue?

This week it’s 80’s: the puffed sleeve and shoulder pad decade.

The design above has the sleeve equivalent of big hair. It’s called Fantasque, named after a Clarice Cliff vase. I find CC an inexhaustible source of inspiration. She is one of my passions, along with shoes and buttons.

Below is a cardigan inspired by the line drawings of Matisse. It was published by Vogue Knitting Winter 1989.

This is Hopi, my best seller from that time. It’s a big cozy shawl collared cardigan that reflected my love of the South West and anything Native American. The buttons were old Indian head nickels.

Cleaning out my Mum’s apartment after she passed away last year I found one of these cardigans in her closet. She wore it up until the very end of her life.

Another southwest inspiration. In the late 80’s and early 90’s crushed velvet prairie skirts, lots of big turquoise jewellery and big concho belts were the thing. This style makes a comeback every couple of years, it seems. No wonder. It’s classic.

For something totally different, a designed inspired by textiles from the Kuba people of pre-colonial Africa. I wish I still had one of these.

This feels a little like being on an archaeological dig in my own life. Next week, it’s the 90’s……

Yes, it really is autumn.

I say this with emphasis because my family in the northern hemisphere are always incredulous when I mention it. I remind them of the teacher in grade school with a tennis ball (earth) circling a soccer ball (sun), tilted and spinning as it goes, exposing one half of our planet to more sun than the other half for half of the year. Phew. Hold on while I try that with balls of wool to see if I understand it myself.

On my morning walks I’m reminded of the ephemeral nature of autumn colours. How quickly the chartreuse, yellow and red fade to a dull dry brown.

I want to capture them in my knitting.

There’s a new Rowan yarn that’s inspiring me. It’s made from used garments and it’s called Revive. The fibres are collected according to their silk, cotton and viscose content, carded and spun into yarn, so it’s 100% recycled. The word that comes to mind is scrumptious, like the home made granola bars from my local cafe. Sweet, satisfying and guilt free.

Revive lends itself beautifully to lace. Here it is in Trellis Leaf pattern from  Barbara Walker’s A Treasury of Knitting Patterns. It’s going to be my between season scarf.

It’s also handsome in good old stockinette stitch.

I want to make this tunic top, named Parsnip!  I love the neck button and subtle gathering on the three quarter length sleeves. Doesn’t it look like just the thing for picking fruit from the pear tree?

Parsnip can be found in this booklet: Purelife Recycled Collection, beautifully styled and lusciously presented as is the Rowan way. All the patterns are designed by one of my favourites, Marie Wallin. Here are a few. I’ll pretend not to notice if you drool.

It’s not all melancholy here. Amongst the autumn pile there’s always a hibiscus or two, reminding us that tropical islands are not far away.

Neither a borrower nor a lender be;

For loan oft loses both itself and friend,

And borrowing dulls the edge of husbandry.

Polonius, in Shakespeare’s Hamlet.

and so said my father, often, ‘tho no scholar of Shakespeare he.

After he and Daphne finally paid off their modest mortgage he revised it to “there’s no better feeling than waking up in the morning knowing you don’t owe anything to anyone.”

That was the old way, to save up for something  you wanted or put it on lay-by until you’d paid it off.

As a teenager I used to buy my yarn ball by ball on layaway at the wool shop in town. You had three months to pick it up. It meant that I could afford to knit with lovely quality wool and I learned to finish my projects in a timely fashion! Thank you, Ballantynes of Christchurch.

In case anyone wants to take advantage of it, (some have already, even a customer in the USA) I instituted this policy on South Seas Knitting. You can pay as you knit.

Knitting needles are like books when it comes to borrowing and lending. Best not to. A few months ago I started making a list of needles I’d lent to friends, but the problem with a list is that I forget where I wrote it.
A set of long, thin metal circulars were missing last week, just when I needed them for a crucial stage in the finishing of my new cardigan. I’d lent them out and taken note . . . . . . somewhere. Thankfully, the borrower remembered.
They arrived back shortly thereafter, accompanied by these lovely yellow roses.

If you’d like to make a doily for your vase of flowers, there’s no better book than Mary Thomas’s Book of Knitting Patterns. She covers doilies of all shapes, plain and lace. You can make them in any yarn, on any size needle, and the possibilities for expressing your creativity are endless. Best of all, you can use bits and bobs from your stash.
My doily is made with hemp, on 4mm needles.